Comp Recap

Well the comp has come and gone. I was feeling pretty strong after training for the last couple of weeks. I was about an hour into the comp and feeling pretty good. I was ready to go send some of the harder stuff. When I aggravated an old finger injury. I did not hear anything pop, but i could not hold onto any holds without a major pain in the joint of my ring finger on my left hand. I am hoping it will set me back just a week or so. Anyways here are some pictures from the comp.

Comp this Weekend

I have been training at the gym for the upcoming season. The first comp is this weekend at Miramont in Fort Collins. The comps at this gym are always a great time. They will be debuting their new wall at this comp, which looks to be an amazing addition to the gym. The first comp of the season is always a good progress check for me on how my training and climbing is moving along.

I am also in the midst of selling my cameras to upgrade to a new SLR that will shoot HD video. I am really psyched to make this switch and start making some awesome new videos. In video news my good friend Matt Lloyd made a video of me climbing at Lincoln Lake. This video has now made it on to Deadpoint Magazine. I am very psyched on having a video on the site but now owe Matt huge for making an awesome video.

Lincoln Lake

Photos by Daniel Madson

Lincoln Lake

Last Friday I headed up to Lincoln Lake to check out what all the buzz about this place is. It is pretty interesting that this area was checked out in the past and dismissed as not having much potential. Most of the newer problems are over V10 and there are something like 6 V14's already with many other projects waiting to be sent. We mostly wandered around and were looking for new lines that could be put in the area. I did also manage to flash the Idiot which is a great boulder problem. I did get video of this and will have it up once it gets edited. I also started to work on Small Arms. It took me quite awhile to find it. After finding it, I could not figure out any good beta to make the difficult move to the gaston. I am psyched to get back there and clean some lines and check out some of the established problems I did not have a chance to get on. I will post some photos from the day once I get ahold of them.

Photos

Here are a few photos that my friend Danny took of me climbing at Three Sisters. Check out his blog here:http://pebblewrestlersinc.blogspot.com/.

Recent Exploits

Well I got super busy again and have been horrible about updating this site with any form of content. I get done observing next week and that should free up a lot of my time for climbing.

A couple of weekends ago, I managed to get outside and check out an area of Three Sisters I have never been to before. First we headed up to the Wisdom Wall, where for some reason I could not figure out the top moves of Wisdom and jumped down. I also started to work Undercover Brother, but am completely baffled on how to do the opening moves. After the Wisdom Wall we hiked up a little further and got on this cool highball right off the trail. I managed to send after a few goes and Matt followed suit shortly after. I also got footage of Matt soloing this route, but the color is way off. I am in the process of trying to see if I can salvage it.

It also seems the new trend in Colorado is to downrate everything. One of these problems getting a suggested downrating is Clear Blue Skies. I have been working this problem for to long and should have sent it by now. Especially considering it is my style with being hard moves on small crimps with good feet on an overhanging wall. Originally given a rating of V13 it is now being called V11. Having not climbed it yet, I can not really comment on the grade. All I can say is it feels harder. With this climb is it that is easier than first perceived are do other factors come into play. If you Google search Clear Blue Skies climbing, you get tons of hits. You can see countless video footage and read about all kinds of beta. Also the question comes into play if more people do something then is it easier. Instead of looking at it in the opposite direction and saying people are getting stronger and standards of what were are being redefined.

Finally an Update so Matt will Stop Harassing me About it

Wow, it has been a long time since I have posted anything on this blog. The past three weeks have been a whirlwind. I finished my capstone for my masters. I wrote it on websites and how they can help a classroom. Between finishing that up, I have been climbing here and there. Lots of time setting and training in the gym to get strong and finally put away some of those pesky summer projects that seem to never go away. Clear Blue Skies I am looking at you, you are going down this summer. I also managed to check out Matt's new little place he has been bolting. Which was quite an experience. Matt never mentioned until we go there that it was a multi-pitch. Multi-pitch I am a boulderer. I could not bail at this point so I went for it and actually dare it say it had some fun in the process. The first pitch is a 100 foot plus 5.10 route. Once you get to the top you get to the good stuff. There is an amazing short twelve that follows an overhang on perfect crimp moves. I also started working a 13 that also sits up there. It also follows an overhang with hard gaston and big moves between good holds.

Evans and Park season are fast approaching and I hope to get some videos and pictures, stay tuned. Updates are going to come and for real this time.