Deer Creek Canyon

Matt and I headed out to Deer Creek Canyon today. Matt wanted to check out a new project and start working the Westside Connection. I came along just to get outside and maybe pull on some real rocks if I got motivated. I ended up spending the day, just messing around on some good boulder problems. Nothing super classic, but they did have good moves and some great rock. I am working on a mini guide for some of these boulder problems, that are definitely worth a go if you are in the canyon. Matt made some great links on his project and a send should be coming soon. Below are some random photos from the day.

Gearing up

Horseshoes and Hand Grenades Free Solo

Horseshoes and Hand Grenades Free Solo

Project

Finally an update of sorts

Got some cool new holds to put up this week at Thrillseekers.

Other than that not much to report on. As my luck as has been the past couple of seasons, as soon as the weather starts turning good, something starts hurting and prevents me from climbing. This time it happens to be not one knee but both of them. I am still hoping to get out at least a few days during my break to check out some new stuff and finish off some projects.

Del Taco Challenge

The Challenge: Eat ten items of of Del Taco's delicious menu in a ten round battle royale.

Rules:No item can be chosen twice.

Prize: Ten items paid for, 25 dollars, and the honor that this challenge brings

Contestant: Matt Lloyd

Round 1: Deluxe Chili Cheddar Fries

Round 2: Macho beef burrito

Round 3: Triple Del Cheeseburger

Matt knocked these rounds out like a boss. This much food on its own could feed an African village for a week. But this is about ten rounds not 3. Bring on the next items.

Round 4: Chicken Quesadilla

Round 5: Macho Nachos

I thought after Matt demolished the first three rounds, it was over. But the sheer sight of the tray approaching the table was the end for Matt. He took two bites of that chicken quesadilla and called it quits.

He vowed vengeance and says he will be back to fight another day. Video was taken and will surface soon.

All the above food-20 dollars

Watching my friend suffer in pain on the car ride home-Priceless

Freight Train Pictures

Tall Face

Unnamed V5

Buddha Belly

Chubby Bunny

Freight Train Boulders

Matt and I today decided to check out some new rocks. It is always nice to take a break from the same old and see something new. The freight train boulders are a small cliff band with nice flat landings and good rock to climb on.

One of the problems we got on is called Chubby Bunny, it is a stout little problem with a crux revolving around throwing off a decent pinch and a bad sidepull to a good edge. It was a nice feeling to finally snag that edge and top it out.

Matt managed to snag an end of the day send of Tall Face, it is a highball and if you were to fall from the top, the tree would be there to give you a nice ride back down.

Most of the problems on this boulder are stout and sandbagged. If you can leave your ego at the car this is a great place to go and get on some of the better problems in Colorado.

Problems worth paying attention to: Chubby Bunny, Buddha Belly, Tall Face and the unnamed V5 on the far left side.

Here is a link to a guide for the area: Guide

Will have some pictures up tomorrow from the days action.

Disturbed Crash Pad Review

Being a person who spends all most of my climbing time bouldering, my crash pad is probably my most valuable piece of gear I carry. There is only choice for me on what company to use and it is Asana. I first started using their gear in 2005. I did not know what to really expect, I mean come on a crash pad is a crash pad right. You sew some fabric together and throw some foam in the middle.

With my Asana pads I have found that even though it is a simple idea it is very hard to get it right and make a quality product all the way around. Some companies have weird angles that could roll your ankles, foam that does not last, straps in the wrong place all these things start adding up when you are using your pad 200 plus days a year.

My first Asana pad; the Lans Solo only needs a foam replacement, everything else has help up well for the last five years. I have carried that thing all over this country and it has seen some great trips.

I recently ordered and added to my arsenal of pads with the new disturbed pad. I like things in bright colors and this pad is no exception. Bright yellow on the inside, orange outside and blue, yellow and orange flaps. This pads stands out as you can see from the photo above. I recently used this pad for the first time last weekend. Here are my five reasons why this pad kicks ass and everyone should look to Asana for their next crash pad.

1. Buckling system- the new system on this pad makes it super fast to close and open. No messing around for five minutes closing buckles, a couple pulls and you are on your way

2. Foam-1 closed cell and 3 inches of open cell that holds up well and protects you on big falls

3. Colors- Now you can get all crazy and create a custom look that you want and make that pad stand out from the crowd

4. Flaps- They seal up everything inside your gear and random stuff does not fall out at the crag. A simple concept but a lot of pads do not have flaps all the way around

5. Company- Asana stands behind their products and wants to make their customers happy with the best products around

Pictures from Yesterday

Here is a link to Danny's Blog:Pebble Wrestlers

He has a short write up and some pictures from yesterday.

Eldo

Me, Matt and Danny today decided to head up to Eldo to do a little rock grappling. There were a few problems I have been waiting to get on. I started to work Resonated which is an arete problem right on the river. In the next few weeks, I do not think the landing will be anywhere near dry and the problem will have to wait until next winter. I figured out most of the moves pretty quick, but the move off the bad sloper shut me down and I could not pull off of it to the good hold on the arete.

We also went and checked out Eastern Priest an amazing highball down by the start of the canyon. It is one of the best problems I have been on in a long time. Good quality moves to a nice highball finish. I will have some pictures of this climb in the next day or two. Me and Matt managed to send this line within a few goes.

I also tried 606 again and find it very frustrating that I can not do this problem considering it is my style of climbing. As i climb more and more I realize that if I expect myself to be able to climb it, I struggle. Where if I just go for it and have no expectations, I usually end up at the top.