Two Videos

Here are two videos, I have made over the past couple of days. The first is of Matt free soloing the local gym. The second is me climbing at Three Sisters.

Three Sisters from Denver Bouldering on Vimeo.

Ankle Injury

The past couple weeks I have been laying low and taking it as easy as possible. During the Bouldering Series comp on the 8th, I took a bad fall. I was dynoning for the top of the wall, I missed and landed on the edge of the pad with my left ankle. I was able to finish the comp but afterwards, walking was quite difficult. I went to the doctor and nothing is broken, just a bad sprain. I will probably need some physical therapy to prevent future problems in my ankle. I am still able to climb which is amazing. If I had to take another month off of climbing, I may have gone insane. So I have been setting and climbing in the gym mostly the past couple of weeks. Today I went outside for the first time in a while and headed up to Three Sisters with my girlfriend. I wanted to check out the Subterranean Wall. I managed to climb a few of the classics on the wall. I also put what I believe is an FA. It starts on Spotless and traverses right on crimps into the corner of Stupefied. From here you make a big move out to the finish of Scoundrel. It probably checks in around V6/7. I am proposing the name Double Dragon for this climb. I got some video of this climb, and will have it posted it shortly.

The Bouldering Series

Short little video I threw together from tonights comp. The new camera is working out great, still working out some of the kinks though. I am excited to get a lot of footage this fall and make some great new videos.

The Bouldering Series from Denver Bouldering on Vimeo.

Comps and Camera

Finally I am starting to feel strong once again. For the first time in a few months, I feel almost back to where I was before the injury. Last Thursday was the first of two Donkey Kong Comps at Rock'n and Jam'n 2. I was able to send 23 out of 35 problems. This coming Thursday is the second comp at the North Rock'n and Jam'n. Doing 23 problems last Thursday has put me in a good spot to hopefully finish in first for both comps.

Before the Gun Show at The Spot I purchased the new Nikon D3100. The main reason behind this purchase was to be able to get higher quality climbing footage from all of my adventures. I was able to test it outside last Sunday and start to put it through its paces. I am very excited to what this camera can do. Look for some great new videos in the coming weeks.

Comp Recap

After the comp at Miramont, I did not climb for almost a full month. My finger injury kept me from climbing. Then to top it all off, I got sick from the kids. Cold, flu, cough you name it I had it over the last month. The 19th I managed to start feeling better so I headed up to Inner Strength to compete in the Summer Send comp. The problems were well set and much harder than in years past. For not climbing in over a month, it just felt great to be getting back into it. Last night was the first comp at The Spot, the Gun Show. I had not climbed on the new wall yet and was excited to see it. The problems were hard to say the least. Most of the open problems revolved around big moves off of pinches. Which unfortunately is not my specialty in climbing. I was just glad to be back climbing and starting to feel strong once again. I am excited for the upcoming comps and hope to be able to train more for these ones.

Comp Recap

Well the comp has come and gone. I was feeling pretty strong after training for the last couple of weeks. I was about an hour into the comp and feeling pretty good. I was ready to go send some of the harder stuff. When I aggravated an old finger injury. I did not hear anything pop, but i could not hold onto any holds without a major pain in the joint of my ring finger on my left hand. I am hoping it will set me back just a week or so. Anyways here are some pictures from the comp.

Comp this Weekend

I have been training at the gym for the upcoming season. The first comp is this weekend at Miramont in Fort Collins. The comps at this gym are always a great time. They will be debuting their new wall at this comp, which looks to be an amazing addition to the gym. The first comp of the season is always a good progress check for me on how my training and climbing is moving along.

I am also in the midst of selling my cameras to upgrade to a new SLR that will shoot HD video. I am really psyched to make this switch and start making some awesome new videos. In video news my good friend Matt Lloyd made a video of me climbing at Lincoln Lake. This video has now made it on to Deadpoint Magazine. I am very psyched on having a video on the site but now owe Matt huge for making an awesome video.

Lincoln Lake

Photos by Daniel Madson

Lincoln Lake

Last Friday I headed up to Lincoln Lake to check out what all the buzz about this place is. It is pretty interesting that this area was checked out in the past and dismissed as not having much potential. Most of the newer problems are over V10 and there are something like 6 V14's already with many other projects waiting to be sent. We mostly wandered around and were looking for new lines that could be put in the area. I did also manage to flash the Idiot which is a great boulder problem. I did get video of this and will have it up once it gets edited. I also started to work on Small Arms. It took me quite awhile to find it. After finding it, I could not figure out any good beta to make the difficult move to the gaston. I am psyched to get back there and clean some lines and check out some of the established problems I did not have a chance to get on. I will post some photos from the day once I get ahold of them.

Photos

Here are a few photos that my friend Danny took of me climbing at Three Sisters. Check out his blog here:http://pebblewrestlersinc.blogspot.com/.

Recent Exploits

Well I got super busy again and have been horrible about updating this site with any form of content. I get done observing next week and that should free up a lot of my time for climbing.

A couple of weekends ago, I managed to get outside and check out an area of Three Sisters I have never been to before. First we headed up to the Wisdom Wall, where for some reason I could not figure out the top moves of Wisdom and jumped down. I also started to work Undercover Brother, but am completely baffled on how to do the opening moves. After the Wisdom Wall we hiked up a little further and got on this cool highball right off the trail. I managed to send after a few goes and Matt followed suit shortly after. I also got footage of Matt soloing this route, but the color is way off. I am in the process of trying to see if I can salvage it.

It also seems the new trend in Colorado is to downrate everything. One of these problems getting a suggested downrating is Clear Blue Skies. I have been working this problem for to long and should have sent it by now. Especially considering it is my style with being hard moves on small crimps with good feet on an overhanging wall. Originally given a rating of V13 it is now being called V11. Having not climbed it yet, I can not really comment on the grade. All I can say is it feels harder. With this climb is it that is easier than first perceived are do other factors come into play. If you Google search Clear Blue Skies climbing, you get tons of hits. You can see countless video footage and read about all kinds of beta. Also the question comes into play if more people do something then is it easier. Instead of looking at it in the opposite direction and saying people are getting stronger and standards of what were are being redefined.

Finally an Update so Matt will Stop Harassing me About it

Wow, it has been a long time since I have posted anything on this blog. The past three weeks have been a whirlwind. I finished my capstone for my masters. I wrote it on websites and how they can help a classroom. Between finishing that up, I have been climbing here and there. Lots of time setting and training in the gym to get strong and finally put away some of those pesky summer projects that seem to never go away. Clear Blue Skies I am looking at you, you are going down this summer. I also managed to check out Matt's new little place he has been bolting. Which was quite an experience. Matt never mentioned until we go there that it was a multi-pitch. Multi-pitch I am a boulderer. I could not bail at this point so I went for it and actually dare it say it had some fun in the process. The first pitch is a 100 foot plus 5.10 route. Once you get to the top you get to the good stuff. There is an amazing short twelve that follows an overhang on perfect crimp moves. I also started working a 13 that also sits up there. It also follows an overhang with hard gaston and big moves between good holds.

Evans and Park season are fast approaching and I hope to get some videos and pictures, stay tuned. Updates are going to come and for real this time.

Battle in the Bubble Day 1

I went to the spot tonight to compete in the qualifier for the Battle in the Bubble. The comp tonight was pretty low key. I was expecting the place to be jam packed with people like every Spot comp seems to be. It was still a good turnout and the problems were great. I took it a little easy tonight and still ended up in 9th place. So tomorrow I will be heading back up to compete in the semis. I hope to get some pictures and video of the event.

DBC Comp Write Up

Last weekend I competed in the first summer comp at the DBC. First things first, quite a few people showed up for the comp, which created a good atmosphere of wanting to pull down. The setting on the first two open problems was great. I only climbed on a few of the other category problems but the ones I got on were fun and were spaced well across the gym. I also heard finals was awesome and had a great vibe to go with it.

I had some major problems with the comp though. All the open problems except one open were on the back wall with a couple venturing onto the arete on the far side of the steep wall. The problems should have been put up all over the gym. Why waste tons of valuable and great sections of the gym. For me the majority of the Open problems represented a very elitist style of setting that was poorly set. Lets make problems hard by having no feet and making giant moves on a steep wall. Any lazy setter can do this, and it is wrong to do for a comp. Just because you are good at this type of climbing, does not mean you need to set it for the majority of the climbs. Problems had one or no feet to do moves. The moves off these feet were giant jumps to open hand holds. Multiple problems had the same types of moves;right hand on an undercling and cross to the headwall, right heel hook cross to a sloper, giant move out left off no feet. Comps need variety on the climbs. It is one thing to set this type of problem outside of a comp. When you are charging people to climb these types of problems it is a whole other story. This type of setting shows why people get paid to set. It takes a true professional to step outside of his or her comfort zone and create multiple problems that are different, unique and encompass all abilities.

If I was to rate this comp on a scale of 1-10. I would give it a 3.

Maybe I am just getting really bad at climbing and need to realize that this will not change and I need to adapt to it or move on.

If you feel I am wrong or have overlooked something let me know, I would be happy to discuss it and see different view points on the matter.

This weekend is the Battle in the Bubble at the Spot. I have ben training really hard for this comp and hope to get to at least semi-finals. I hope to get some pictures and have a short write up about it to post on here.

Deer Creek Canyon

Today I headed out to Deer Creek Canyon with Matt and Danny. Matt the other day found a new project he wanted to free solo. He described it as a highball boulder problem, but it actually could be bolted and is taller than some of the routes there. We loaded up the car with 8 crash pads and were off. Matt threw a top rope down on the route. We quickly realized this line was harder than it looks. After some cleaning and figuring out beta, Matt sent on TR. I cam close but the top moves spit me off. Matt decided to throw a few free solo burns on it to the lip. Watching him jump off from there was like waiting for a train wreck to happen. If he decides to go through with the free solo, a lot more pads will be needed. I will post some pictures from the day soon.

Update

Sorry for the lack of updates as of late. I have been super busy with school and getting everything set up for student teaching in the Fall. I have been climbing here and there when I have some down time. I will be competing in two upcoming comps here in the next month, then the Teva games in June. Look for a real update with photos and video soon.

Deer Creek Canyon

Matt and I headed out to Deer Creek Canyon today. Matt wanted to check out a new project and start working the Westside Connection. I came along just to get outside and maybe pull on some real rocks if I got motivated. I ended up spending the day, just messing around on some good boulder problems. Nothing super classic, but they did have good moves and some great rock. I am working on a mini guide for some of these boulder problems, that are definitely worth a go if you are in the canyon. Matt made some great links on his project and a send should be coming soon. Below are some random photos from the day.

Gearing up

Horseshoes and Hand Grenades Free Solo

Horseshoes and Hand Grenades Free Solo

Project

Finally an update of sorts

Got some cool new holds to put up this week at Thrillseekers.

Other than that not much to report on. As my luck as has been the past couple of seasons, as soon as the weather starts turning good, something starts hurting and prevents me from climbing. This time it happens to be not one knee but both of them. I am still hoping to get out at least a few days during my break to check out some new stuff and finish off some projects.

Del Taco Challenge

The Challenge: Eat ten items of of Del Taco's delicious menu in a ten round battle royale.

Rules:No item can be chosen twice.

Prize: Ten items paid for, 25 dollars, and the honor that this challenge brings

Contestant: Matt Lloyd

Round 1: Deluxe Chili Cheddar Fries

Round 2: Macho beef burrito

Round 3: Triple Del Cheeseburger

Matt knocked these rounds out like a boss. This much food on its own could feed an African village for a week. But this is about ten rounds not 3. Bring on the next items.

Round 4: Chicken Quesadilla

Round 5: Macho Nachos

I thought after Matt demolished the first three rounds, it was over. But the sheer sight of the tray approaching the table was the end for Matt. He took two bites of that chicken quesadilla and called it quits.

He vowed vengeance and says he will be back to fight another day. Video was taken and will surface soon.

All the above food-20 dollars

Watching my friend suffer in pain on the car ride home-Priceless

Freight Train Pictures

Tall Face

Unnamed V5

Buddha Belly

Chubby Bunny

Freight Train Boulders

Matt and I today decided to check out some new rocks. It is always nice to take a break from the same old and see something new. The freight train boulders are a small cliff band with nice flat landings and good rock to climb on.

One of the problems we got on is called Chubby Bunny, it is a stout little problem with a crux revolving around throwing off a decent pinch and a bad sidepull to a good edge. It was a nice feeling to finally snag that edge and top it out.

Matt managed to snag an end of the day send of Tall Face, it is a highball and if you were to fall from the top, the tree would be there to give you a nice ride back down.

Most of the problems on this boulder are stout and sandbagged. If you can leave your ego at the car this is a great place to go and get on some of the better problems in Colorado.

Problems worth paying attention to: Chubby Bunny, Buddha Belly, Tall Face and the unnamed V5 on the far left side.

Here is a link to a guide for the area: Guide

Will have some pictures up tomorrow from the days action.

Disturbed Crash Pad Review

Being a person who spends all most of my climbing time bouldering, my crash pad is probably my most valuable piece of gear I carry. There is only choice for me on what company to use and it is Asana. I first started using their gear in 2005. I did not know what to really expect, I mean come on a crash pad is a crash pad right. You sew some fabric together and throw some foam in the middle.

With my Asana pads I have found that even though it is a simple idea it is very hard to get it right and make a quality product all the way around. Some companies have weird angles that could roll your ankles, foam that does not last, straps in the wrong place all these things start adding up when you are using your pad 200 plus days a year.

My first Asana pad; the Lans Solo only needs a foam replacement, everything else has help up well for the last five years. I have carried that thing all over this country and it has seen some great trips.

I recently ordered and added to my arsenal of pads with the new disturbed pad. I like things in bright colors and this pad is no exception. Bright yellow on the inside, orange outside and blue, yellow and orange flaps. This pads stands out as you can see from the photo above. I recently used this pad for the first time last weekend. Here are my five reasons why this pad kicks ass and everyone should look to Asana for their next crash pad.

1. Buckling system- the new system on this pad makes it super fast to close and open. No messing around for five minutes closing buckles, a couple pulls and you are on your way

2. Foam-1 closed cell and 3 inches of open cell that holds up well and protects you on big falls

3. Colors- Now you can get all crazy and create a custom look that you want and make that pad stand out from the crowd

4. Flaps- They seal up everything inside your gear and random stuff does not fall out at the crag. A simple concept but a lot of pads do not have flaps all the way around

5. Company- Asana stands behind their products and wants to make their customers happy with the best products around

Pictures from Yesterday

Here is a link to Danny's Blog:Pebble Wrestlers

He has a short write up and some pictures from yesterday.

Eldo

Me, Matt and Danny today decided to head up to Eldo to do a little rock grappling. There were a few problems I have been waiting to get on. I started to work Resonated which is an arete problem right on the river. In the next few weeks, I do not think the landing will be anywhere near dry and the problem will have to wait until next winter. I figured out most of the moves pretty quick, but the move off the bad sloper shut me down and I could not pull off of it to the good hold on the arete.

We also went and checked out Eastern Priest an amazing highball down by the start of the canyon. It is one of the best problems I have been on in a long time. Good quality moves to a nice highball finish. I will have some pictures of this climb in the next day or two. Me and Matt managed to send this line within a few goes.

I also tried 606 again and find it very frustrating that I can not do this problem considering it is my style of climbing. As i climb more and more I realize that if I expect myself to be able to climb it, I struggle. Where if I just go for it and have no expectations, I usually end up at the top.

New Climbing Gear Coming

I have received my tracking information from Asana and my new pad and gear is on the way and should be here soon. I have ordered the new team bag, a bouldering bag and the sick new disturbed crash pad. The crash pad I customized with some crazy bright colors.
I also broke down and ordered some holds for Thrillseekers from E-grips. I think the last E-Grips set thrillseekers ordered was back when E-grips started. I ordered a set of the buttton crimps and signed up for the first dibs hold of the month club. So be sure to come in and check out the sweet new problems that will be going up with these holds.
I will have reviews of all the new gear up over the next few weeks.

Mad Rock Hustler

I have decided to start writing about some of my favorite gear and why I use it. In the last five years I have used the Hustler for my street shoes, approach shoes and everything in between. When I first got the shoe I was not sure what to expect from it, how would it handle talus fields? Would it be comfortable to use all day? How would it hold up route setting and forerunning?

1. First off, it is a stylish shoe with a great fit, breathability and build quality.

2. Hiking to places like Mount Evans and RMNP in these shoes is super comfortable and never has caused a problem. In the talus fields scrambling around trying to find problems the shoes stick and feeling like I am going to slip has never crossed my mind.

3. When I route set, I wear this shoe. I do not want to keep switching to my climbing shoes and want to be comfortable when setting for a whole afternoon. Fore running the problems it holds up extremely well, the rubber sticks to even the smallest foot holds and getting a good sense of of what my creation will feel like is easy.

Snowy Weather

With all this snow and cold lately it has been quite a challenge to get outside and climb. Snow is expected to keep falling until Monday. Here are a couple old videos from when the weather was nice and sunny.

Three from Joe's from Denver Bouldering on Vimeo.

The Pipeline

Here is a video I made of my friend Matt Lloyd climbing the Pipeline in Morrison, Colorado. This climb is in the lobby and the list of people crazy enough to climb this is short.

Motivation

Just a couple of great videos out there that are some great motivation to get out there and climb.

The Game, World's Hardest Boulder Problem? from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.

Photos

Here are a few photos from Morrison. I hope to have another video up later this week of some highball action.

Matt Lloyd-CPR

Matt Lloyd-CPR

Matt Lloyd-Highball in the Lobby Morrison

Variation #1235987 of Helicopter

Today I took the day off from doing anything and decided to go climbing. When it has been snowing and been cold, there is only place to go that comes to mind; good old Morrison. Matt was psyched to head out and get on a couple crazy highballs in the lobby. One of which Matt almost died on. I have video and pictures of the highballs and other stuff that I will get up here in the next day or so.

Matt showed me a new variation to Helicopter called CPR. It involves making a big move to a decent crimp then a crazy drop knee to a bad edge, then you toss up into a good rail and finish helicopter. Anyways here is the video of CPR, hope ya enjoy.

CPR from Denver Bouldering on Vimeo.

Free Solo in Castlewood

Here is a short video I put together of my friend, Matt Lloyd, free soloing a route in Castlewood Canyon, last weekend.

New Boulder Problems

The upstairs bouldering at Thrillseekers has tons of new problems up and more are being added. Come in and check them out!

New Blog

I have decided to move my blog over to this site for various reasons. Over the next few days I will have this thing up and running fully. I will be keeping the old site up to keep all the pictures and videos from the past up on the web. Stay tuned for more.

Leave me a comment and let me know what you think of the new site!